At a hardware or home-improvement store, select a large piece of wood or particle board 1 inch thick. You'll need to do some hand sawing, so try to get a single sheet at least 5 feet tall by 3 feet wide. This wood comes in many different types, so pick something easy to sand.
Place your largest flat piece of wood flat in your now-clear workspace. The suggested size for most standard mixing consoles is 24 by 36 inches, but be sure to make sure your mixer sites nice and flat with a solid 6 inches behind it and 6 inches in front of it. Don't cut the wood too close, or your mixer will be liable to take a fall. There's nothing worse than working a set and having your mixer take a dive, unplugging everything.
Using the wood glue, apply solid lines to the front and sides of the large piece of wood. You'll need to work a bit quickly, as the wood glue may get gummy if you take too long. Now, place your 36 inches wide, 8 inch tall piece of wood at a right angle, facing up. If you're working with wooden board an inch thick, measure the side pieces so that they make a three-sided rectangular box and do the same with each side, using plenty of wood glue.
Leave the glue to dry, and you're ready to prepare your other tools. Make sure to give the wood glue some time to set up as directed on the bottle. You wouldn't want to get wood glue on your mixer or mic cables.
Using your power drill and a small drill bit, cut a 2-inch round hole in the rear of the top of your newly built box. Now cut a hole of the same size and a second hole of equal diameter on the bottom front-center section of the box.
The purpose of the hole up top is such that all your mic cables, as well as any audio inputs you are running from a digital audio interface or turntables, can run into the mixer. The purpose of the hole in the front is to loop the microphone cables through the open back side from your mixer's RCA inputs. The whole point of this new wooden structure, of course, is to keep your cables from getting tangled and unplugged.
Place your mixer directly on top of the box. If you have too many cables to go through the primary mic cable hole up top, which will now be toward the rear of your mixer, drill the hole a little larger. You will be clipping the cables once they are all in place with a zip tie, so make sure there's just a little wiggle room. Plug in all your mic cables, and make sure they fit through the top and bottom holes.
Unplug everything if you are satisfied, and set all your mic cables away from your workspace. Now comes the finishing. Using a power sanding tool--or sandpaper, if you must--sand down the edges of your three-sided mic cable box. Finish your piece by painting it black so it will virtually disappear in low light. Put the strips of duct tape at each side of where your mic mixer will sit to prevent it from sliding, and you're done.
The whole thing makes a nice, tidy and secure mic cable box package that is easily portable. No more slipping mic cables.