Focus on a single subject. If the frame is too cluttered with multiple things, the audience will not know where to look. The subject should be clearly visible and be the focal point of the image so the eyes will always be drawn to it.
Determine the scale of the shot. By varying the lens size and camera placement, you can create a long shot, medium long shot, medium shot, close-up and extreme close-up. When shooting the exact same subject, these different shots can have a drastic impact on the overall image. For example, an extreme long shot can be used as an establishing shot or show the isolation of the subject, while a close-up is a very intimate shot and can almost be claustrophobic. Use these framings to add meaning to your shots.
Compose your shots in thirds. Image your frame divided into thirds with two vertical lines and two horizontal lines dividing the frame into nine equal squares. Place your subject at the points where these lines intersect. This also applies to your horizon line, which should be place in the upper third or lower third of the image.
Use the natural lines of the image to direct the viewer’s eyes. Straight lines appear static and add little to the shot. But by using diagonal lines, you can add depth to your image. For example, instead of shooting a road straight on, shoot from an angle so that the road moves diagonally across the screen. The viewer’s eyes will naturally follow this line toward the subject.
Balance the frame. If you have too many objects on one side of the frame, this can make the shot appear lopsided. You do not necessary have to add another subject to the other side, but you should capture background and foreground objects that can complement the subject.
Lead the subject. Frame the shot so that there is space in front of the direction that the subject is heading. If the front of the subject is too close to the side of the frame, it will appear that the subject is about to exit the frame.