Lighting instruments are essentially metal can-shaped devices. You can make suitable lighting instruments out of large No. 10 sized aluminum cans found in restaurants. Stovepipes are also useful but they lack built-in "bottoms." Use a can that is at least 7 inches to 8 inches in diameter and 8 inches to 9 inches in height to accommodate the lamp. Do not paint the inside surface of the can; lighting instruments produce a lot of heat. Paint the outside of the can but use heat-resistant black "stove" paint. Small holes drilled in the bottom of the can, around the perimeter, will help wick heat away from the inside of the can.
Lighting instruments hang from an electrical pipe by a special c-clamp attached to the can by a "U"-shaped steel yoke. The yoke attaches to the can at two opposing points, with adjustable bolts, so that it "holds" the can in its "arms." The c-clamp fits through a hole in the top of the yoke and another adjustable bolt holds the c-clamp in place. The c-clamp can thus be swiveled and the yoke can tilt up or down, providing a way to point the instrument in different directions. The yoke and c-clamp assembly is often the hardest part to manufacture at home unless you have the skills to bend or weld steel to the proper shape and drill c-clamp bolt holes in the metal. Because they are not available in local hardware stores, you will most likely have to purchase the special swiveling c-clamps from stage equipment retailers.
Use standard porcelain-base "screw in" light receptacles. Plastic receptacles will not be able to withstand the high heat inside the can. Use a porcelain base manufactured for flush mounting that provides at least two holes for bolting the receptacle to a flat surface. Drill a ¾" diameter hole in the center bottom of the can. Line the hole with a heat resistant grommet. The grommet holds the wiring in place and protects it from cuts caused by the sharp edges of the hole in the aluminum can. Thread No. 12 or No. 14 insulated, grounded electrical wires through the hole and connect them to the receptacle properly. Bolt the receptacle to the inside bottom of the can. Finish the wiring leading out of the can with a standard 3-prong Edison-type plug.
Purchase incandescent parabolic lamps (PAR lamps). PAR lamps come in pre-focused "flood" or "spot" light configurations and have a subtle "lens" surface that helps focus the light, similar to a real Fresnel lens. PAR lamps are available at any home improvement store in various sizes: choose the correct size for your instrument length and diameter. Avoid closing off the front of homemade equipment with gel media. The heat build up inside a homemade instrument will tend to burn the gel. Use colored PAR lamps instead.