Unscrew the body of the RCA connector from the contact portion. Be careful not to lose the insulating sleeve contained in the body, if your connector is equipped with one. Slide the body (and insulating sleeve) onto the end of your audio cable. Make sure the threaded portion of the body is facing toward the end of the cable you are working with.
Use the razor knife to remove approximately 1 inch of the cable's outer jacket. Separate some of the shield conductor strands and twist them together to form a ground wire similar in diameter to the cable's center conductor. Use the wire cutters to trim off the remaining shield conductor strands so that they are even with the end of the cable's outer jacket.
Approximate the amount of space inside the body of the connector, subtracting the amount that the contact portion takes up when the connector is assembled. Trim both the center conductor and shield conductor so that the end of the cable jacket will be inside the body of the connector when fully assembled.
Secure the contact portion of your RCA connector, using either the plastic-jawed vise or another appropriate holding device. Strip approximately 1/8 to 3/16 inches of the insulation from the center conductor and solder it to the connector's center contact solder terminal. Solder the shield conductor to the connector's outer contact solder terminal. If the connector includes strain relief tabs for gripping the cable jacket, fold them tightly into the jacket using pliers.
Slide the body of the connector down the cable and screw it onto the contact portion, making sure the outer jacket of the cable extends into the body of the connector and does not leave any of the internal parts of the cable exposed.
Unscrew the body of the phone connector from the contact portion. Be careful not to lose the insulating sleeve contained in the body, if your connector is equipped with one. Slide the body (and insulating sleeve) onto the end of your audio cable. Make sure the threaded portion of the body is facing toward the end of the cable you are working with.
Use the razor knife to remove approximately 1 inch of the cable's outer jacket. Separate some of the shield conductor strands and twist them together to form a ground wire similar in diameter to the cable's center conductor. Use the wire cutters to trim off the remaining shield conductor strands so that they are even with the end of the cable's outer jacket.
Approximate the amount of space inside the body of the connector, subtracting the amount that the contact portion takes up when the connector is assembled. Trim the center conductor and shield conductor so that the end of the cable jacket will be inside the body of the connector when fully assembled.
Secure the contact portion of your phone connector, using either the plastic-jawed vise or another appropriate holding device. Strip approximately 1/8 to 3/16 inches of the insulation from the center conductor. Solder the center conductor to the connector's tip contact solder terminal. Solder the shield conductor to the connector's sleeve contact solder terminal. If the connector includes strain relief tabs for gripping the cable jacket, fold them tightly into the jacket using pliers.
Slide the body of the connector down the cable and screw it onto the contact portion, making sure the outer jacket of the cable extends into the body of the connector and does not leave any of the internal parts of the cable exposed.
Unscrew the body of the phone connector from the contact portion. Be careful not to lose the insulating sleeve contained in the body, if your connector is equipped with one. Slide the body (and insulating sleeve) onto the end of your audio cable. Make sure the threaded portion of the body is facing toward the end of the cable you are working with.
Use the razor knife to remove approximately 1 inch of the cable's outer jacket. Separate some of the shield conductor strands and twist them together to form a ground wire similar in diameter to the cable's center conductors. Use the wire cutters to trim off the remaining shield conductor strands so that they are even with the end of the cable's outer jacket.
Approximate the amount of space inside the body of the connector, subtracting the amount that the contact portion takes up when the connector is assembled. Trim both the center conductors and shield conductor so that the end of the cable jacket will be inside the body of the connector when fully assembled.
Secure the contact portion of your phone connector, using either the plastic-jawed vise or another appropriate holding device. Strip approximately 1/8 to 3/16 inches of the insulation from the center conductors. Solder one center conductor to the connector's tip contact solder terminal. Solder the other center conductor to the ring contact solder terminal. Make a note of which center conductor is connected to the tip and which is connected to the ring. In a stereo cable application, the tip carries the Left channel signal, and the ring carries the Right channel signal. In a professional "balanced" mono cable design, the tip contact carries the positive, or "hot" portion of the audio signal, and the ring contact carries the negative, or "cold" portion of the signal. In all cases, signal polarity or Left/Right orientation must be observed when working with the other end of the audio cable. Solder the shield conductor to the connector's sleeve contact solder terminal. If the connector includes strain relief tabs for gripping the cable jacket, fold them tightly into the jacket using pliers.
Slide the body of the connector down the cable and screw it onto the contact portion, making sure the outer jacket of the cable extends into the body of the connector and does not leave any of the internal parts of the cable exposed.
Remove the body of the XLR connector from the contact portion. Loosen the small set screws to remove the body, if you are working with a Switchcraft-style connector. Twist the body to unscrew it from the contact portion, if you are using a Neutrik-style connector. Slide the body, including any strain relief (the rubber or plastic part that clamps onto the cable jacket) down the cable, making sure the end that attaches to the contact portion is facing the cable end.
Use the razor knife to remove approximately 1 inch of the cable's outer jacket. Separate some of the shield conductor strands and twist them together to form a ground wire similar in diameter to the cable's center conductors. Use the wire cutters to trim off the remaining shield conductor strands so that they are even with the end of the cable's outer jacket.
Approximate the amount of space inside the body of the connector, subtracting the amount that the contact portion takes up when the connector is assembled. Trim both the center conductors and shield conductor so that the end of the cable jacket will be inside the body of the connector when fully assembled.
Secure the contact portion of your XLR connector, using either the plastic-jawed vise or another appropriate holding device. Strip approximately 1/8 to 3/16 inches of the insulation from the center conductors. Solder one center conductor to the connector's Pin 2 solder terminal. Solder the other center conductor to the Pin 3 solder terminal. Make a note of which center conductor is connected to Pin 2 and which is connected to Pin 3. In modern equipment, Pin 2 carries the positive, or "hot" portion of the audio signal, and Pin 3 carries the negative, or "cold" portion of the signal. Signal polarity must be observed when working with the other end of the audio cable. Solder the shield conductor to the Pin 1 solder terminal.
Slide the body of the connector down the cable and re-attach it to the contact portion, making sure the outer jacket of the cable extends into the body of the connector and is held firmly by the connector's strain relief.