Cut an 8-inch section out of the wire coat-hanger. Gently bend it straight with your hands and then put it in a bench-clamp for an hour to remove any kinks.
Measure the distance between the D and E strings on the violin; these strings are on the ends.
Cut a piece from the plastic drinking straw so it is the same length as the distance between the end strings. Avoid the bendy part of the straw as the surface of the mute needs to be smooth.
Cut the cork up into small pieces and insert them into the drinking straw section. Push the pieces in so the straw is tightly packed.
Remove the wire from the clamp and place it on a heat-proof surface, such as a work bench.
Put on a pair of heat-resistant gloves and heat the wire for approximately 10 seconds. This softens the metal and makes it more pliable. Remove the gloves.
Brace the wire with one pair of pliers, using your weaker hand. With your dominant hand, use the pliers to bend the center of the wire so it takes on a “U” shape. The bottom of the “U” must be no longer than 1 inch.
Fold the wire in half so the long section to the right of the “U” loops behind the “U.”
Apply heat again.
Clasp the folded section 1/4-inch to the left of the “U” and bend the remaining portion so it is at a 45-degree angle to the right-hand “side” of the “U.” The angled portion of the wire forms a half-spring like section.
Clasp the “U” and the bent portion together. Form a 1/4-inch long hook at the end. Repeat the bending process with the wire on the left-hand side of the “U,” so that shape of the wire is symmetrical. The two parts of the wire that overlap create leverage when forced to conform to the shape of rigid, straight surface. By levering the wire against the violin bridge, you create up-force on the strings.
Pierce the cork at each end of the plastic tubing with the hook part of the wire.