Cut an 8-foot piece of lumber in half to create two pieces, each 48 inches long, for the legs of the frame.
Rip each 48-inch 1-inch-by-6-inch piece of wood into 2-inch wide legs with the table saw. You will be able to get two 2-inch legs from each piece of wood, with some waste on each piece, for a total of four legs.
Cut a 34-inch piece of wood from the remaining 1-inch-by-6-inch piece. This will be the “floor” of the structure.
Cut two 10-inch pieces from the leftover lumber. These pieces will become the wedge-like braces.
Set a mitre saw at 30 degrees. Saw off the bottom, left corner of the pieces cut in step four. Flip the boards over to cut the opposing corner off at the same angle. You should end up with a piece that looks like a triangle with its tip cut off; set it aside.
Cut each leg at a 30-degree angle where the tip meets the floor. This allows the “foot” of the leg to be parallel to the floor.
Working from the foot of each leg, measure and mark the legs at 20 inches.
Position one leg on the wedge piece at the marking, having the “cut-off-tip" side down. Align the edges and screw the leg into place.
Flip the unit over. Place the second leg on the brace, align the edges and screw the leg into the brace. Your legs should form an X, with each leg on opposite sides of the brace.
Repeat steps eight and nine for the other side of the frame. Now you have two sets of Xs.
Fasten the “floor” board (34-inch 1-inch-by-6-inch board) into the top of each brace, between the sets of legs. Trim to fit if necessary. Use three screws, evenly spaced. Your unit should stand alone at this point.
Sand, stain and polyurethane the frame, and let it dry.
Apply a bead of silicone glue from the “floor” of the frame going up the inside surface of the leg of each side. The acrylic panels will rest on these upper legs, add stability to the frame and support to the print sleeves.
Set acrylic panels in place. Let the adhesive cure according to the manufacturer's directions.