During the 17th century Japanese government officials outlawed the depiction of aristocratic characters such as samurai and nobles in realistic ways.
To depict characters of a high class producers ordered the costumes of noble characters to be exaggerated with brighter colors and fabrics than those used in reality.
The 17th century saw the rise of the merchant class, or chounin, in Japanese society. As the chounin grew wealthier they required the characters in Kabuki theatre to express this newfound wealth in the flamboyancy of costumes.
A character's age, class, traits and status in society are expressed by the costume he wears in kabuki theater. Aspects of costume such as color and textile are used to illustrate these characteristics.
Costumes were also used to depict traditional garb worn by members of Japanese society such as the samurai whose armor was replicated with the short happi coat.