The first ballet shoes were hard, inflexible, heeled shoes of the European upper class. As ballet choreography became more athletic and a more flexible shoe was required, the shoe became a flat, soft slipper, similar to the ones beginner and intermediate ballet dancers wear to class today. Over time, dancers adapted their ballet shoes to accommodate new feats of choreography, such as sustained balances, hops and turns. These changes included adding a harder shank and a stiff, supportive box. These adaptations became standard wear for ballerinas.
The shank is the hard inner sole of the shoe that supports the arches while on full pointe. Shanks are available in different strengths. Dancers can choose how hard or soft of a shank they want depending on the strength and flexibility of their feet. With certain brands, a dancer may need to bend and soften the shank to prepare it for dancing.
The box of the shoe covers the toes. This part allows a dancer to balance on the tip of her toes, creating the look of a long, straight leg line. The box must be close-fitting to the toes. So this may cause discomfort while on full pointe. Many dancers wrap their toes in tape, bandages or paper to protect them from blisters. Lambswool or gel pads are also common aids against blisters. Many advanced dancers and professionals prefer to use no padding, however. Developing callouses on the feet by practicing in unpadded shoes helps to toughen the skin and lessen blisters.
The vamp is the front part of the pointe shoe, and it covers the toes. The correct vamp length is imperative in the right fit of a pointe shoe. If the vamp is too long, it can be difficult for the dancer to stand on full pointe. If it is too short, her instep may not be properly supported, and she may lose balance.
The satin ribbons on the shoe add to the elegant look of the pointe shoe. They also help to keep the shoe securely on the foot. Some dancers also sew elastic on their shoes to add more security and customize the fit. Elastic can be placed in a crisscross shape over the instep of the foot in order to fit the shank closer to the arch of the foot. Another option is to sew elastic fitted around the ankle to keep the heel of the shoe more securely on the foot. Some teachers believe that a correctly fitted shoe will not need elastics. Some dancers use only elastics instead of ribbon for a more natural and streamlined aesthetic. This look is especially popular for contemporary choreography.