Measure the art. Decide how the art will be framed by drawing a model. Remeasure the art and repeat all calculations to ensure accuracy.
Cut the backing board to the desired size, then center the art on the board. It may help to place a weighted object such as a sandbag on the surface of the art to prevent movement, but be careful not to damage the artwork.
Once the art is centered on the backing, mark the location of the four corners by making light pencil lines on the backing board. Use the marked backing board to determine the width of the mat, then cut the mat accordingly.
When the backing and art have both been cut, place the art between them to ensure it fits. Again, use a weight to secure the art in place. Create a "T" with the fabric tape by sticking two pieces together at a right angle to one another. Make sure at least an inch of the adhesive side is visible on each side.
With the art still in place, lift the top corners and insert the "T" tape loops. Apply gentle pressure and lift the backing slowly to make sure the art stays in place.
If your molding has not been cut to length, measure, mark and cut it using a mitre box and following your diagram. Always allow an additional 1/8 inch on each leg in case the artwork or backing paper expands over time.
Join the legs of your frame using wood glue and the framer's vice. Do this by carefully lining up both legs in the perpendicular vice heads, then removing one leg to apply the glue. Once the second leg has been replaced, remove any excess glue and use the brad nailer to join the legs on each side.
After joining two legs to produce one corner of the frame, join the other two legs to produce the opposite corner. Once you have built two "L" shaped pieces, make the final joins to finish your frame.
Once the frame is assembled and the glue has dried, insert the glazing. Do this on a clean, soft surface such as a carpeted workbench covered with brown craft paper.
Clean the glass or acrylic using the glass cleaner and lint free cloth. Certain acrylic glazing cannot be cleaned with glass cleaner. Check for any special instructions from the manufacturer.
When the glass is clean and dry, insert the mat (face down), followed by the mounted artwork.
Stretch the canvas over a stretcher if you are framing a painting on canvas. Attach each side with a series of stainless-steel staples spaced about 4 inches apart. Insert the stretched canvas into the frame in place of the glazing, mat and artwork.
Secure the art inside the frame by inserting stainless steel brads (or small nails) into the inside edge of the frame, flush with the back of the artwork.
Attach a dust cover to the frame by lining the back of the frame with double-sided tape, then laying a large piece of brown craft paper over the backing and cutting away any excess paper.
Screw in the eye hooks on what will be the vertical legs of the frame. Measure from the top of the frame and attach the eye hooks about 1/3 of the way from the top.
Run the picture hanging wire between the eye hooks, looping it around itself several times at each hook.
Attach the adhesive rubber bumpers to the bottom two corners of the frame. This will help the picture hang level and also protect the wall from damage.
Your frame is ready to hang. Measure carefully and use a picture hanging hook that is strong enough for the weight of the frame (most commercially available hooks are weight rated and should be used in pairs).